Does Alternative Meat Belong in Fine Dining? We Tried Ultimeat’s New Fungus Protein in a 6-Course Meal

However, we were pleasantly surprised to learn that alternative protein may also have a place in the fine dining scene. We were recently invited to try out Ultimeat’s new product, Ultimeat Mycoprotein (fungi protein), at Nimbus Restaurant.

As part of the collaboration between the two, Nimbus Restaurant, known for seamlessly merging Western culinary techniques with vibrant Asian flavours, prepared a six-course meal of exquisite dishes, all of which had fungi protein incorporated into them.

But before we share our experience with the dishes, let's start by explaining Ultimeat Mycoprotein. Mycoprotein (mycelium-based protein) is a type of protein derived from fungus, a category of living things that includes mushrooms. But no, we’re not talking about your regular old portobello or enoki mushrooms.

It is produced through fermentation, where harmless bacteria change their form over time, creating what is essentially like animal protein without using animal cells.

Apart from being high in protein and fibre, mycoprotein is a surprisingly affordable and convenient alternative to meat protein. This perfectly aligns with Ultimeat’s goal of combating carbon emissions and encouraging healthier dietary choices.

But how does it taste?

As we entered Nimbus Restaurant, we were immediately led to our seats and within minutes, were presented with the first dish, ‘King Oyster Mushroom’ paired with a Tom Kha Emulsion.

The mushrooms were stuffed with shredded mycoprotein, with the Tom Kha emulsion in between, and further layered with tomato and mustard green chutney. Thanks to the shredded mycoprotein, this tasted like regular stuffed mushrooms but with a slight mouthfeel of something lighter.

This was one of our favourite dishes of the night as the combination of the mushrooms, mycoprotein and emulsion paired delightfully to offer something fresh and light tasting.

The next dish they brought out was the ‘Mycoprotein Terrine,’ which is basically a play on satay. The terrine, which was made mostly of mycoprotein, was served with percik sauce and fried tempeh on the side.

Although this wasn’t one of our favourites, we were surprised with how light the terrine tasted despite being compressed into a terrine. When paired with the percik sauce and fried tempeh, this meal made us feel quite hearty.

The third appetiser was the ‘Smoked Mycoprotein Risotto,’ which consisted of risotto, small chunks of mycoprotein, and fried cordyceps tossed with truffle oil, a soy base, and candied goji berries.

This dish is where we tasted the most of the mycoprotein, which complemented the risotto and other components and gave the dish a more earthy feel.

As we felt pretty stuffed, we were treated to a palate cleanser called ‘Pineapple Granita’. In this dish, the mycoprotein came in the form of sprinkled floss meat paired with the pineapple granita.

Although we initially hesitated to try this dish because the combinations didn’t make sense, it became one of our favourites. The mycoprotein floss gives the dish a slight saltiness, which perfectly complements the sweet and sour pineapple granita.

After our palates had reset, we were served the main dish, ‘Charred Cabbage,’ which is cabbage layered with minced mycoprotein flavoured with tamarind paste and served with miso and pumpkin puree.

We had mixed feelings about this one. Although we loved the combination of the charred cabbage and minced mycoprotein, the puree did not elevate the dish's taste and ended up tasting pretty bland. However, the dish was pretty filling.

With our bellies filled to the brim, we were grateful to be served dessert next as the last dish for the night. How could it incorporate fungi protein into a dessert? We soon discovered that they did so in the form of a ‘Hazelnut & Chocolate’ dessert made of mycoprotein tuile, caramelised hazelnut, and mycoprotein chocolate feuilletine.

We struggled to see how the mycoprotein was incorporated into this dish, but fortunately, Chef Fred, who is the chef and owner of Nimbus Restaurant, told us that it was hidden in the golden leaf topping made of powdered mycoprotein. It’s also below the mousse in the form of dark chocolate-covered dehydrated mycoprotein.

As we weren't massive fans of chocolate, we struggled to finish this dish because it was rich and heavy. Still, we loved the texture of the golden leaf topping and chocolate-covered dehydrated mycoprotein, which gave the dish some much-needed crunch.

Overall, the six-course meal exceeded our expectations and showed us how Ultimeat’s mycoprotein is so versatile that it could be incorporated into the fine dining scene creatively.

If you’d like to try the six-course meal for yourself, the limited-time menu featuring Ultimeat Mycoprotein will be available at the Nimbus Restaurant weekly from April 15 to May 15, 2024, for RM388+ per pax.