This Restaurant Takes Cantonese Cuisine to the Next Level and Offers an Omakase Experience

If you take a drive along Jalan Sultan Ahmad Shah or better known as Northam Road in Georgetown, you may notice many properties along the millionaire’s row and one such mansion is a 130-year-old heritage building formerly owned by a tycoon. Nestled within is Maple Palace, arguably Penang’s best Chinese restaurant in our book.

Since opening its doors in 2009, it has made a name for itself by serving contemporary Chinese cuisine that caters to the island’s elite set. It has even hosted Hong Kong stars, celebrity chefs, and local personalities like Chef Wan. As it is in a city where gastronomes typically seek to fill their stomachs with street food rather than visiting proper Chinese restaurants, it stands out head and shoulders above the rest with its carefully curated menu and swanky interior.

As prices are higher above average by Penang’s standard, you would think that diners typically wouldn’t head here for an impromptu meal. However, the founder of Maple Palace, Tan Loy Sin shares that customers who first frequented his restaurant 14 years ago continue to come back for more and as he said, “Customers always come by word of mouth and my list of regulars just keeps getting longer.’

Even though we dined in on a Thursday, almost every table was filled, and Loy said, “I am thankful to receive similar crowds almost every night.”

However, this road to success did not come easy, as it came through Loy’s sheer determination and hard work during his early years as he spent hours every day toiling in the kitchen from 4.30 am to 11.00 pm daily and juggling two jobs with barely enough time to sleep.

The 49-year-old Penangite has over three decades of experience in the industry under his belt, with humble beginnings as a part-time waiter at Novotel Hotel at 14 to support his family. When he was 18, a chef there encouraged him to work at the hotel currently known as JEN by Shangri-la. He started off as a butcher but was later transferred to work at the coffee house.

In 1994, he left to work as a chef for Star Cruises, being part of a team that was stationed in multiple countries including Taiwan, Japan, Singapore, and a five-year stint in Hong Kong. In 2004 he owned a Cantonese restaurant Jade Blossom before opening Maple Palace at its current location.

Although he no longer personally enters the kitchen every single day now, he still takes the helm when it comes to sourcing ingredients and coming up with the extensive a la carte menu of over 130 dishes which is amended every two years to exclude slow-moving items.

The rotating menu is changed every two months, “I try to keep my menu authentic but present it in modern ways while keeping the flavours. I want my customers to know what they’re eating,” he said.

He now oversees over 20 chefs in the kitchen which includes Chef James Lee who has experience at the China World Hotel under the Shangri-La Hotels and Resorts group as well as Chef Lee Chia Lok who is the creative talent behind the plating and art drawing at the bustling restaurant.

He also travels extensively abroad to gather ideas for his dishes, especially to Hong Kong and Guangzhou for inspiration but also makes sure to try other cuisines like Thai and Mexican.

Loy also commented, “The most important things about food are the raw materials, the skills, temperature control, and the timing. He pays special attention to sources for good quality ingredients that are not only specific to the country but the exact region that it is produced such as the difference in the taste of lobsters from the northern and southern regions of Australia due to the sea waters.

Although many other Chinese restaurants in the city appear derelict over the years, Loy is also careful to pay special attention to creating and maintaining a luxurious ambience for his customers, carrying out minor renovations on different parts of the restaurant every year.

Speaking on his thoughts on the restaurant not being listed in the recently released Penang Michelin Guide, Loy said, “I’ve been in this industry for many years. With or without a Michelin listing, the most important thing for us is giving the best to our customers and working hard on our service and food. Getting it would just be a bonus.”

“I want to do something that is different from the other restaurants in Penang, but I want to make sure that we incorporate modern Chinese styles of cooking and not make it fusion. Although I have experience in various types of cuisines, I decided to go back to my roots as it is part of my heritage.” While he is keen to keep his food authentic, Loy also tries to push the envelope with his special menu which we managed to sample.

We have visited this restaurant multiple times in the past to try their a la carte and CNY menu, but it was our first time trying their omakase menu. The menu is also crafted to appeal to the younger set, who are typically hesitant to visit Chinese restaurants with their friends, and only dine in with their families.

Prosperity Salmon Garden Salad “Yu Sheng” & Maple Palace Deluxe Appetiser Trio

Although the restaurant also offers the regular type of Yee Sang, this is a healthier spin on the classic served with salmon sashimi, dragon fruit, apples, and pomelo. It was certainly a refreshing and welcoming alternative that delighted our tastebuds with its sweet and sour flavours as Chinese menus typically tend to be on the heavier side.

The best of the three was the Barbecued Iberico Pork Bun glazed with Honey Sauce served in a soft steamed bun with indulgent pieces of meat that was tender and loaded with flavour that we wouldn’t mind having more servings of.

The Breaded Crab Claw with Chili Tomato Sauce didn’t particularly wow us and seemed like something that you could find elsewhere. However, Deep-fried Stuffed Scallop and Prawn with Pear was fried just right so that I was able to enjoy the juiciness of the seafood.

Stuffed Aromatic Duck with Yam Paste & Golden Flaxseed Corn-fed Chicken

A remarkable point about the dish was that its name was intricately written on the plate using edible food colouring in Chinese. The chicken was not too fatty or oily and the mild nutty flavour from the flaxseed was an inspired alternative to the usual sesame seeds. However, I found that the layer of yam paste was too thick, and I was unable to savour the taste of the duck.

Steamed Egg White with Superior Stock, Lobster, and Caviar & Roasted Crispy Pork Roll with Quinoa

This was one of the standouts of the night as mixing the egg white with superior stock made for a unique dish that was light yet flavourful. The lobster was succulent, and the Italian caviar added a buttery richness.

The pork skin was thick yet easy to cut into and had a great crunchy texture that crackled beautifully. It well was paired with a salsa sauce which balanced out the strong flavour of the pork.

Sichuan Goby Fish Fillet with Pickle Mustard and Vermicelli & Sweetened Herbal Jelly with Peach Resin in Almond Milk

The serving of this dish was slightly too big as we were stuffed at this point, but it was easily our favourite. The tender fish fell off the skin and we found ourselves slurping up the local-style mild Mala soup. We would come back just for this dish but do note that it is only available on the a la carte menu without the vermicelli.

The dessert was served with some bells and whistles in the form of liquid nitrogen. Although I personally don’t favour almond milk in general, my dinner companion found it to be an invigorating end to the meal and the jelly was gorgeously served in the shape of a rose. The crispy sesame ball on the side had a crispy yet chewy texture with just the right consistency which is the best we’ve had yet.

The omakase menu is a special menu that is not listed and needs to be booked a minimum of three days in advance and is not available for walk-ins. Prices for the omakase menu start at RM250 per head, with a minimum of four pax so be prepared to spend RM1,000 for the meal. The restaurant will prepare a menu after a minimum amount and budget are stipulated. Do note that there is ample parking in the compound but an RM3 fee is applicable. Make sure to call ahead for reservations at 04-227 9640.

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Address: 47, Jln Sultan Ahmad Shah, George Town, 10050 George Town, Pulau Pinang