We previously reviewed Zen by Mel in 2022 and praised them for their attention to detail while introducing our palates to surprising new flavours combinations.
The next evolution of their omakase experience is Sanshō, a culinary journey inspired by the moon's transformation from sorrow to unwavering strength and is a tribute to the Japanese moon god in folklore, Tsukuyomi.
If you're not caught up on your Japanese folklore, the names for dishes on the menu may go over your head, but the chef in attendance will be able to walk you through each stage.
Like we've mentioned in our previous review, this omakase experience is more like a course meal rather than the actual experience which literally translate to "I leave the details up to you". While you know what you're getting before hand, the dining experience still centres around your relationship with the chef and the guided experience.
There are two dining sessions now, one for lunch and one for dinner at 12 to 3.30pm and 6 to 10.30pm respecitvely. You may choose from 3 courses, the lunch-only 7 course at RM250/pax, 8 course Lite menu at RM360/pax, and the full 11 course menu at RM450/pax. The latter 2 are dinner only options.
For our review, we managed to try the 8 course Sanshō Lite menu.
Sansho Lite experience
This was this writer's first experience at a semi-private dining experience and what we realised was how the entire course was catered around your enjoyment of the meal.
Seats are spaced out, the food comes on time one after the other, and the communal dining space facing the chefs makes it feel like a performance rather than a meal.
You're not here to simply eat and hang out with a friend, you're here to be fully immersed in a gastronomic journey and for the most part, we were sold.
The first three courses set the tone for the rest of the afternoon—being served in a gift box with food set atop earthy elements like rocks and grains. If you're following along with the menu from top left reading downwards, the food in the photo from left to right is Izanami, Izanagi, and the Lunar Seal Loyang.
Chef Jordan, which we've profiled previously in our first review, walked us through each dish with an accompanying story about the food. This was our introduction to intentional dining and each dish had an extra step to make them pop.
The drip you see in the first photo is a rosemy drip that seasons the starter. The crispy tart with cheese, plum picke, and caviar set the tone for flavour for the rest of the afternoon with sweet, sour, savoury, and texture mingling in one bite.
Next, the Izanagi, made with amaebi prawns in a special breading made with Polenta was served with sauce derived from bunga kantan. Chef Jordan's use of signature local ingredients like bunga kantan makes every dish familiar, yet distinctly Japanese.
Rounding out the starters is the tuna on kuih loyang with aji verde sauce (a spicy Peruvian sauce). Once again, you get the crunchy loyang contrasted with the almost creamy texture of the tuna complemented by just the right amount of aji verde.
As far as starters go, the trio provided a good vertical slice of things to come, marrying taste with texture in every bite. There's a final tea chaser at the end to cleanse your palate which was refreshing too.
Soup and hors d'oeuvre
Moving on, we get a reprieve from the proteins in the starters by way of the bread and soup courses, the Pearls of the Moon God and Tears of Tsukuyomi.
We don't usually get bread after starters but once you've tried this cute little pearl you'll understand. The mini brioche was made with Hokkaido milk and the star of this was the butter infused with tapenada and yuzu.
The bread has a light pineapple glaze on top and should be enjoyed in portions. Tear our a piece, spread that butter and enjoy. The crust was crispy, tangy, and sweet at the same time while the butter provided the complex umami flavour.
Now this next dish, really blew us away. The broth was made 100% with vegetables and it's sweeter than any bone or meat broth we've ever had.
Growing up in a Chinese household where boiling soup is an artform, we would never believe that such flavours could be extracted from simply vegetables. The chef told us the vegetables used were imported from Japan—just like most of the ingredients here.
The two dishes functioned to break up the meal and act as cleansers. They allow new flavours to be introduced and prevents the same flavours to linger for too long on your tongue.
Main course
The main course, Lunar Storm, is chicken on a bed of kale, white asparagus, porcini mushrooms, local pumpkin, and kinoko mushroom sauce. Oh, and the sauce is made with vanilla.
Based on the ingredients you can tell this is a decadent plate. The protein is ironically not the main course in the main course as the supporting cast were cooked to perfection and its flavours were pushed to the forefront.
The vanilla in the sauce was a welcome surprise here and you wouldn't think it would go well in a savoury dish, but its addition in the sauce is playful and inventive. The chicken tastes good with the hint of vanilla and we wonder if they can use it in other ways.
Like all good course meals, the final heavy item on the menu is the Tsukuyomi no Umi, a risotto (or rice basically) in prawn bisque with roe, tomatoes, and edible gold flakes.
It's a hearty seafood bowl that's warm and comforting and should fill you up if you felt that the food so far hasn't been enough. You get the rich umami from the prawns, the salty from the broth, sweetness and tanginess from the tomatoes, and little bursts of delight from the fish roe.
Of all the dishes, this one felt the most basic, but it's the most flavourful. We wouldn't mind coming back to just get this.
To cap off the afternoon we were presented with a little more drama, and some yummy desserts: from left to right they are, coffee caramel peppermint, matcha lime, and oolong lychee.
These dainty things go down in one bite and while not mesmerising, they were delicious too. One final oolong chaser ends the experience and you're ready to go crash for a nap.
Overall experience at Zen by Mel
At RM250/pax, we think what's on offer here is more than worth the money. Chef Jordan has managed to keep his costs very low while still using premium ingredients that are imported. Sure you can probably buy just about 2 steaks for RM250, but they'd be basic.
For RM250, you go from just eating lunch to dining. The meal is a whole production on its own and in the end, we really appreciate the amount of craft that has gone into the presentation and preparation of the food.
If you're looking to just get in, eat a nice meal and leave, this experience is not for you. But if you're ready to try some new things, taste new sensations, and have an intentional time of enjoying food, Zen by Mel's Sanshō omakase is for you
Check out their offers on Instagram at ZenbyMel.